Live: Report from Pitti 2

SIMON CROMPTON

Wednesday 11th of January 2012

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Day 2 at Pitti and you’re beginning to get your eye in. Wake, shower, dress. Walk across a freezing city in stunning sunshine. Duck away from the photographers and squeeze through a crowd of preening, chatting humanity. Ignore the cheap ‘classics’, skip past the sportswear, refuse to accept any proffered leaflet, and zoom your attention in on...

Isaia's soft yet sharp tailoring

Isaia. The Neapolitan house of colour with serious sartorial nouse. Hand finishing more than hand construction, but still beautiful buttonholes, buttons and stitching details. The 8 mm stitch is apparently the new thing - big, looping stitches up the lapels that create a subtler raised seam. Nice trademark red pins in the lapel buttonholes too. And then we focus in on...

Fedeli's hand-knitted luxury

Fedeli. Like the swamp of grey cashmere elsewhere, except different, better. The showcase piece is a hand-knitted heavy hooded pullover. Hand knitted as in a woman with knitting needles and a big ball of wool. Seems very homely but incredibly expensive to do at scale. Real fur trimmings, beautiful suede details. This is best of the Italian-style knitwear and they’re opening up a store in London soon. As is, coincidentally...

Bright patterns at Zanone

Slowear. The conglomerate of Incotex trousers, Montedoro jackets, Glanshirt and Zanone knitwear. Each year one brand is picked to be exhibited at Pitti. Last year it was Montedoro, this year Zanone has a turn. Interestingly the colours are very non-Italian. Cherry reds and plum purples. Big double checks and Argyles. Apparently everyone in Italy knows Zanone so they’re not really reaching for that audience here. It’s the Middle East, Russia, China, and they want colour. All will be getting their own Slowear store following the success of the first one outside Italy, in Paris.

The movie made from Jules Verne's sci-fi novel gets a nod from Italian shoemaker Silvano Lattanzi

Lattanzi

Time for a change. First, the idiosyncratic detailings of Silvio Lattanzi. This season the shoe brand is keen to play with perceptions, and so they display a range of trompe l’oeil effects including drawings of famous film scenes, laces that seem to be bursting out from inside the shoe and buckles that aren’t really there. Then there are the white crocodile mountain boots. Someone has to experiment with these things, and it’s usually Lattanzi.

Cabourn's book celebrating the anniversary of Captain Scott's Antarctic polar expedition next week

Double-brushed Harris tweed from Nigel Cabourn

Second change of pace: Nigel Cabourne. Recently featured in The Rake, this one-man whirlwind of rediscovery is surrounded by fans of his adventuring and military garments. His staff, all young guys from the north-east of England like Nigel himself, model the ‘workwear suit’ in denim, the Red Wing collaboration in an old, particularly chunky last, and put on the down and parka jackets at Nigel’s instruction. There is no bullshit here; this is genuine passion.

Even with a selective eye, we run out of space to record all the brands we like doing things we like. So, briefly to mention that Kiton is showing only its younger CIPA line, which is very un-Italian: cordovan shoes and thick-knit overcoats; long-hair alpaca and camouflage rendered in jacquard. And Barbera, Gallo, Rota (great trousers), the list goes on.

Perhaps a rest, and a more reflective piece next week. Check back to The Rake online.

Photography by: Luke Carby

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Featuring	Live: Report from Pitti 2 SIMON CROMPTON Wednesday 11th of January 2012 0 Comments Tweet Day 2 at Pitti and you’re beginning to get your eye in. Wake, shower, dress. Walk across a freezing city in stunning sunshine. Duck away from the photographers and squeeze through a crowd of preening, chatting humanity. Ignore the cheap ‘classics’, skip past the sportswear, refuse to accept any proffered leaflet, and zoom your attention in on... Isaia's soft yet sharp tailoring Isaia. The Neapolitan house of colour with serious sartorial nouse. Hand finishing more than hand construction, but still beautiful buttonholes, buttons and stitching details. The 8 mm stitch is apparently the new thing - big, looping stitches up the lapels that create a subtler raised seam. Nice trademark red pins in the lapel buttonholes too. And then we focus in on... Fedeli's hand-knitted luxury Fedeli. Like the swamp of grey cashmere elsewhere, except different, better. The showcase piece is a hand-knitted heavy hooded pullover. Hand knitted as in a woman with knitting needles and a big ball of wool. Seems very homely but incredibly expensive to do at scale. Real fur trimmings, beautiful suede details. This is best of the Italian-style knitwear and they’re opening up a store in London soon. As is, coincidentally... Bright patterns at Zanone Slowear. The conglomerate of Incotex trousers, Montedoro jackets, Glanshirt and Zanone knitwear. Each year one brand is picked to be exhibited at Pitti. Last year it was Montedoro, this year Zanone has a turn. Interestingly the colours are very non-Italian. Cherry reds and plum purples. Big double checks and Argyles. Apparently everyone in Italy knows Zanone so they’re not really reaching for that audience here. It’s the Middle East, Russia, China, and they want colour. All will be getting their own Slowear store following the success of the first one outside Italy, in Paris. The movie made from Jules Verne's sci-fi novel gets a nod from Italian shoemaker Silvano Lattanzi Lattanzi Time for a change. First, the idiosyncratic detailings of Silvio Lattanzi. This season the shoe brand is keen to play with perceptions, and so they display a range of trompe l’oeil effects including drawings of famous film scenes, laces that seem to be bursting out from inside the shoe and buckles that aren’t really there. Then there are the white crocodile mountain boots. Someone has to experiment with these things, and it’s usually Lattanzi. Cabourn's book celebrating the anniversary of Captain Scott's Antarctic polar expedition next week Double-brushed Harris tweed from Nigel Cabourn Second change of pace: Nigel Cabourne. Recently featured in The Rake, this one-man whirlwind of rediscovery is surrounded by fans of his adventuring and military garments. His staff, all young guys from the north-east of England like Nigel himself, model the ‘workwear suit’ in denim, the Red Wing collaboration in an old, particularly chunky last, and put on the down and parka jackets at Nigel’s instruction. There is no bullshit here; this is genuine passion. Even with a selective eye, we run out of space to record all the brands we like doing things we like. So, briefly to mention that Kiton is showing only its younger CIPA line, which is very un-Italian: cordovan shoes and thick-knit overcoats; long-hair alpaca and camouflage rendered in jacquard. And Barbera, Gallo, Rota (great trousers), the list goes on. Perhaps a rest, and a more reflective piece next week. Check back to The Rake online. Photography by: Luke Carby 0 Comments LEAVE A REPLY Name (required): E-Mail (will not be published) (required): Website (optional): Security Code (required): Messages (required): No HTML allowed. URLs will be linked with nofollow attribute. Whitespace is preserved. You might also like: The tale of two Piccolos The new Rubinacci store: Photos The new Rubinacci store, Naples Best of Britannia In the beginning Loro Piana made-to-measure knitwear What the average Englishman was wearing Kent Haste and Lachter: The best value on JM Weston's New Flagship on Jermyn Street Skyfall, Daniel Craig and Omega Sotheby’s publishes incredibly stylish music video Amber Lounge Omega Planet Ocean 600M: For Men Ensuring the	Disclaimer: The individual copyrights for all the songs featured in this playlist are not owned by The Rake. This playlist is purely for streaming purposes and downloading of the songs through this website is prohibited. If you wish to purchase any of these songs, please visit www.apple.com/itunes.