Featuring
back-issue-title
back-issue
browse-past-issue
back-issue-title
ivy-style
style-and-error
ivy-style
ps-london
HSBC-women's-booklet
hand-artisan-magazine
annual-subscription-magazine
Elia Caliendo: final jacket
SIMON CROMPTON
Thursday 14th of June 2012
8   Comments

This is the final jacket from a commission with Sartoria Caliendo in Naples, reported at various stages here in The Rake. As with most beautiful examples of Neapolitan tailoring, it deserves a little dallying over the details. 

I start with a picture of the outbreast pocket for a reason. During the commissioning process, there was a rather enjoyable 10 minutes when I tried to explain to Elia Caliendo, the young head cutter at the house, the meaning of the English word ‘cute’.



Elia’s normal style for a jacket such as this, you see, would be to have patched hip pockets (if only so there is no need for a pocket bag on the inside and the lining can therefore be that much slimmer) – but a welted outbreast pocket. I explained that I wanted a patch pocket because I loved the shape of the Neapolitan patches. They have so much more subtle style and swerve, such insouciant bounce, compared to their rather practical, square and hunting-related cousins in the UK. 

The patch outbreast pocket is the perfect distillation of that style. Reduced in size and slapped on the top of the jacket like a badge, it shows off all the best of Neapolitan style in miniature detail. It is small – you can barely get a handkerchief in it, certainly not a full-sized linen one. And it is cute. “What is ‘cute’?” asked Elia. “Small, petite, attractive, appealing; your baby is cute, kittens are cute,” I stumbled in reply, making my best use of Neapolitan hand gestures. Elia was nonplussed.

But back in London last month, to deliver the jacket, Elia turned to me triumphantly: “I looked it up in an English-Italian dictionary, now I understand,” he said. “It is how I will describe it in future.” Perhaps it will become known generically as a cute pocket among English customers of Neapolitan tailoring. Or perhaps not.

Elsewhere, it is worth pointing out the single cuff button – typical on an odd jacket for Elia – and the polished horn used for those buttons. So many English tailors say they prefer unpolished horn because it doesn’t look ready-to-wear; with something of this variegation, I think it’s rather a shame not to polish it up. Also note the double stitching around all the edges of the jacket. Unsure of this at first, I like it on a summer sports jacket such as this. Perhaps not on a navy business suit, and certainly not in contrast stitching, but here it is a subtle pick-me-up to the finely worked edges.

 

A beautiful piece of work.

  


img-comment-total
8 Comments
BEAUTIFUL, DELICATE WORKMANSHIP. LET US HAVE A FINAL PIECE SHOWING THE FULL JACKET PERHAPS WITH A BACK SHOT; DOES THE GARMENT HAVE VENTS?
2012-06-14 18:50:47
David Harris
Beautiful piece of work; very delicate workmanship. Are there any full length shots?
2012-06-14 18:54:57
David Harris
A thing of beauty.
2012-06-15 14:41:24
Full view possible; back and front? photo of tailor?
2012-07-11 05:45:18
russel blair
Look out for more pictures in the next issue of The Rake...
2012-07-14 06:50:58
Simon
What type of fabric is this Simon? Wool/Silk, Wool/Linen?
2012-07-14 09:09:07
Omar
It's a wool/silk. About 9 ounces
2012-07-16 04:28:52
Simon
Your blog is wonderful!  I found it from a fernid's blog and perused it so hard this morning I was nearly late to work.  It made me think about style in a different way, and wouldn't you know it, it seemed as if all my subsequent customers of the day were older, stylish and interesting!  Just my luck.Thank you for bringing this stylishness to the forefront.  I can't tell you how many times I've thought, "Holy crap, I'd totally wear that!" when seeing an older person walk by.  What inspiration!
2012-08-05 02:39:13
LEAVE A REPLY
CAPTCHA

No HTML allowed. URLs will be linked with nofollow attribute. Whitespace is preserved.

Disclaimer: The individual copyrights for all the songs featured in this playlist are not owned by The Rake. This playlist is purely for streaming purposes and downloading of the songs through this website is prohibited. If you wish to purchase any of these songs, please visit www.apple.com/itunes.
adv_revo-banner
adv_styleanderror
adv_dashing_tweeds
adv_ps_london
adv_ps_london